A solo travel chronicle

There
& Back
Again

Tales written in the old manner — for those who travel not merely to arrive, but to be changed by the road.

Begin the Journey →

"For what is travel, if not the art of gathering stories to warm the cold winters of ordinary time?"

There & Back Again is an independent travel chronicle written and photographed byMitch Chadban. Every journey here was made in person, alone, and mostly overland.

Each article is written twice over. The narrative half tells the journey as it happened, in the voice of the traveller. The practical half gives the working detail behind it — the route in the order it should be walked, the trains and the ferries, where to stay and what it cost, and the meals worth crossing a city for.

Portugal · Spain

4 Weeks Portugal to Spain by Rail & Road

A month from Porto to Barcelona, almost entirely overland — port lodges and a mountain wine festival, fado and the Algarve cliffs, a chapel of bones, and Gaudí's unfinished basilica.

Italy · Morocco · Spain

Italy, Morocco & Seville in Four Weeks

Bologna and Rome, the imperial cities of Morocco, and across the Strait into Andalucía — a single month-long arc joining Europe and North Africa.

Morocco · Imperial Cities

The Imperial Circuit: Morocco in 14 Days

Marrakech to Rabat to Fes to Tangier — a standalone journey through Morocco's old capitals, from red walls and desert light to medina shadow and the northern strait.

Italy · Lazio

Six Days in Rome at the Table of Empires

From Pizzarium near the Vatican to carbonara at Roscioli, from the Colosseum at dawn to Trastevere at dusk — a chronicle of Rome, city of eternal hungers.

Italy · Emilia-Romagna

4 Days in Bologna: The Fat City's Table

A deeper guide to eating in Emilia-Romagna — the old country of ragù, mortadella, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and the settled conviction that lunch deserves reverence.

Portugal · Lisbon

5 Days in Lisbon Itinerary

Five days in the city of light and tile — read by climbing, from the castle hill to the river, with fado for the evenings and Sintra a train ride away.

Portugal · Douro

5 Days in Porto: The City the River Built

Five days in the city that turned a river into an industry — granite and gold, the climb up from Ribeira, port across the water, and a sunset for every evening.

Portugal · Algarve

4 Days in Lagos: The Coast of Golden Cliffs

Four days on the Algarve done at dawn — ochre cliffs and hidden coves before the heat, the grottoes by boat, and the land running out at Cabo de São Vicente.

Spain · Andalucía

10 Days in Sevilla: Andalucía Without Rush

Ten days in southern Spain's triumvirate of Moorish inheritance — using Seville as a fixed base, making the region reveal itself not by conquest, but by return.

Spain · Seville

3 Days in Seville: Palace, River and Parasol

A three-day Seville route that avoids crossing the city twice — the Real Alcázar and the monumental core, Triana and the river, then Plaza de España and the Setas.

Spain · Catalonia

7 Days in Barcelona: Gaudí's Unfinished Argument

Seven days at the trip's busiest base, read through Gaudí and the hill, with three day trips and a cathedral still rising after a hundred and forty years.

Morocco · Fes

2 Days in Fez Itinerary

Two days inside Fez el-Bali — the world's oldest living medina, and the place that resists all description.